Making Yi embroidery shine in the world

    2023-08-23 09:02:56 by Sichuan International Communication Center

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    51年前,10岁的阿西巫之莫坐在火塘前,看着妈妈手中的针线在布料上穿梭,一朵朵索玛花跃然布间。

    51 years ago, 10-year-oldAxiwu Zhimo sat by the fire pit, watching hermother's needle and thread weave through the fabric, creating blossoming Soma flowers.

    51年后,作为彝绣省级非遗传承人,阿西巫之莫的彝绣作品登上国际市场,带着本民族的文化去到世界各地。

    Now, as a provincial-level inheritor of the Yi embroidery tradition, Axiwu Zhimo's Yi embroidery works have entered the international market, carrying the culture of his people to various corners of the world.

    半世纪的时光,阿西巫之莫用一针一线,将大凉山的彝族文化付诸彝绣中,不仅教会了4000余名学生,更让彝绣成为彝族文化推广的一张世界级名片。

    Over the span of half a century, Axiwu Zhimo painstakingly used every stitch and thread to infuse the culture of the Yi ethnic group from the Daliangshan into Yi embroidery. Shenot only taught over 4000 students but also turned Yi embroidery into a world-renowned symbol of Yi cultural promotion.

    “技艺、灵感都是大凉山给的”

    “我的技艺、灵感都是大凉山给的。”阿西巫之莫说,1972年,10岁的她第一次接触到彝绣。从她的祖母开始,这项传统技艺一直传承。

    "My skills and inspiration are gifts from the Daliangshan," Axiwu Zhimo says. In 1972, at the age of 10, she first encountered Yi embroidery. This traditional art had been passed down through generations, starting with her grandmother.

    耳濡目染间,选色、纺线、裁剪、刺绣……阿西巫之莫逐渐学会了彝绣的每一步,当第一朵索玛花绽放在黑色的棉布上,她决定,将这门祖传的手艺传递下去。

    From color selection and spinning thread to cutting and embroidery, Axiwu Zhimo gradually mastered every step of Yi embroidery. When the first Soma flower bloomed on a piece of black cotton fabric, she decided to pass on this ancestral craft.

    1992年,随着彝绣技艺逐渐熟稔,阿西巫之莫开始全身心投入到彝族刺绣的设计和制作当中。她一开始免费为熟人的孩子缝制衣服,时间久了,越来越多人开始找上门来,请她帮忙设计制作。从小孩子的衣服,到婚嫁的礼服,再到节日的盛装,阿西巫之莫在当地的名气越来越大。

    In 1992, as her expertise in Yi embroidery grew, Axiwu Zhimo dedicated herself fully to designing and creating Yi ethnic embroidery. Initially sewing clothes for acquaintances' children for free, she gained more recognition as time went on. From children's clothes to wedding dresses and festive attire, her reputation in the local community continued to grow.

    培养4000余名绣娘

    作为一个土生土长的大凉山人,阿西巫之莫知道,学会一门手艺对当地妇女而言,有着不凡的意义,为何不让更多人认识、了解和学会彝绣?阿西巫之莫决定开班招徒,让更多当地妇女加入绣娘的队伍。

    Being a native of the Daliangshan, Axiwu Zhimo recognized the significant meaning of acquiring a craft for local women. Why not introduce more people to Yi embroidery? Thus, Axiwu Zhimo decided to open classes and take on apprentices, inviting more local women to join the ranks of embroiderers.

    “首先是让她们掌握一门技能生活得更好,其次更重要的是推广彝绣这门传统技艺。”2011年,阿西巫之莫开始在甘洛县各个乡镇开设彝绣专题培训班和辅导班,广泛传授传统技艺和创新技术。一年后,阿西巫之莫被评为彝族刺绣非物质文化传承人。

    "First and foremost, it's about enabling them to lead better lives through mastering a skill, and equally important, it's about promoting this traditional art of Yi embroidery," Axiwu Zhimo says. In 2011, she began organizing Yi embroidery training and coaching sessions in various townships of Ganluo County, passing on both traditional and innovative techniques. A year later, she was recognized as an inheritor of the Yi ethnic embroidery intangible cultural heritage.

    2019年,为了让更多人能够传承彝族刺绣非物质文化遗产,阿西巫之莫召集自己的“学生”成立了四川省第一家彝族刺绣专业合作社——甘洛县彝针彝线刺绣专业合作社,将自己积蓄了近50年的技艺毫无保留地教授给当地学员,让1700人通过合作社销售刺绣工艺品,实现居家灵活就业。

    In 2019, to ensure the inheritance of the Yi ethnic embroidery intangible cultural heritage, Axiwu Zhimo gathered her "students" and established the first Yi ethnic embroidery cooperative in Sichuan Province — the Ganluo County Yi Needle and Thread Embroidery Cooperative. She generously shared her nearly 50 years of accumulated skills, allowing 1700 individuals to sell embroidered artworks through the cooperative and achieve flexible employment from home.

    如今,阿西巫之莫共培训过4000余人掌握彝绣技能。彝绣,逐渐在世人眼中绽放光彩。

    Today, Axiwu Zhimo has trained over 4000 individuals in mastering Yi embroidery skills. Yi embroidery is gradually shining in the eyes of the world.

    高奢定制从大凉山来

    阿西巫之莫想要找到一条路,可以让彝绣站上世界舞台。

    Axiwu Zhimo aimed to find a path for Yi embroidery to step onto the global stage.

    2023年5月,坚持和传承了50余年后,阿西巫之莫的彝绣终于“飞”出了凉山,飞到了国际市场。

    In May 2023, after more than 50 years of dedication and inheritance, Axiwu Zhimo's Yi embroidery finally "took flight" from the Daliangshanand entered the international market.

    2023年5月,阿西巫之莫与国际高奢品牌合作,用传统彝绣缝制的手袋在北京展出,备受时尚人士关注。

    In May 2023, Axiwu Zhimo collaborated with an international luxury brand to showcase handbags sewn with traditional Yi embroidery in Beijing, garnering significant attention from the fashion community.

    为了展现出彝绣工艺精致华美、手法多样、图案生动的特点,阿西巫之莫耗时400小时,结合彝绣中特有的锁花绣、挑花绣、密集弧线锁边绣等刺绣技法,手工刺绣35万针以上,打造出了这只结合传统技艺和现代化设计的手袋。而作品一经展出,引发了不少人对彝绣的关注。

    To showcase the intricate beauty, diverse techniques, and lively patterns of Yi embroidery, Axiwu Zhimo spent 400 hours using special techniques such as locked flower embroidery, picked flower embroidery, and densely curved edge embroidery, embroidering more than 350,000 stitches by hand to create a handbag that blended traditional craftsmanship with modern design. Once exhibited, this work garnered significant attention to Yi embroidery.

    “传统手工艺要与现代时尚结合,才能更有生命力,现代时尚也需要从传统中汲取养分,创作更有美感的作品。”阿西巫之莫对彝绣的未来充满了希望,“我希望未来能将更多彝族文化和彝绣制品展现给更多人。”

    "Traditional craftsmanship needs to integrate with modern fashion to remain vibrant, and modern fashion should draw inspiration from tradition to create more aesthetically pleasing works," Axiwu Zhimo envisions a hopeful future for Yi embroidery. "I hope to present more Yi ethnic culture and Yi embroidery products to a wider audience."