“成为珠宝设计师，与我从小深受彝族传统文化熏陶的成长经历之间，是一种水到渠成的关系。”作为第一位登上全球顶级时尚杂志《Vogue》的中国彝族设计师，龙红紫娓深爱自己民族的传统文化。彝族妇女们口耳相传的饰品制作技艺，不断带给她灵感的同时，也启发着她新的思考。

"As a Yi ethnic who has been deeply influenced by the traditional Yi's culture, it's natural for me to become a jewelry designer." Longhong Ziwei, the first China's Yi ethnic designer being posted on "Vogue", is so attached to the traditional culture. She has been inspired and enlightened by the Yi ethnic traditional ornaments.

人物名片：

龙红紫娓，彝族，祖籍四川省凉山彝族自治州，出生于云南省宁蒗县，2017年硕士毕业于英国伦敦艺术大学伦敦时装学院时尚商业及设计专业，是第一位登上《Vogue》的中国彝族设计师。

彝族传统文化浸染出“时尚梦”

2019年5月，龙红紫娓凭借自己创立的首饰品牌，被国际权威时尚杂志《Vogue》国际版评为“中国最优秀七大新锐珠宝设计师品牌”之一。龙红紫娓认为，正是长期的彝族传统文化浸染，让她找到了一种沟通大凉山与国际前沿的“时尚语言”。

In May 2019, international heavyweight fashion magazine "Vogue"named her one of the seven most cutting-edge jewelry designers in China.Longhong believes that traditional ethnic culture plays an important role in her "fashion language"through which she connects Daliang Mountain with the world.

作为一名彝族姑娘，在龙红紫娓的记忆里，“妈妈做的百褶裙、衣服的银纽扣、耳朵上佩戴的耳环，都特别好，而且还是自己设计的;奶奶更擅长做银领牌、拼接色彩艳丽的烟袋，连睡觉都穿戴着。从小我就知道，饰品和人是可以合而为一的”。

Traditionally, the Yi people wear silver accessories. "The pleated skirts, silver buttons, earrings made by my mom are amazing. My grandma is good at making silver ornaments and tobacco pipes which she doesn’t take off even when she is in bed. For me, the ornaments can be a part of a person,"said Longhong.

童年的记忆让龙红紫娓对于做饰品、做服装有着天然的向往。“受家人影响，我决心以后做自己的服装品牌”。

2015年时，她辞去原有的工作，苦学英语去英国攻读时尚设计相关的硕士学位。龙红紫娓于2017年回国，由于凉山与彝族文化的血脉联系，她每年都会到凉山各县采风。

“有一次从凉山美姑县回来，夕阳西下，我遇到一个年龄和我差不多的姑娘正赶着羊群回家。她的家在山的那边，山的形象就在眼前。”龙红紫娓说，那一刻这位女子透出的柔软打动了她。

"Once I came across a girl heading home with her sheep at dusk on my way home from Meigu County, Liangshan Prefecture. She lived on the other side of the mountain and the mountain was close at my hand."Longhong was moved by her.

寻找诠释民族文化的新视角

除了收集创作素材，龙红紫娓也通过采风寻访当地优秀的手工匠人。

龙红紫娓说，她认识一位技艺非常出色的手工匠人，此前因为种种原因不得不背井离乡去外地打工，“我觉得非常可惜，一直和他保持着联系。”随着龙红紫娓的设计被越来越多的人喜欢，她和这位手工艺人开始合作，终于在去年，这位手工匠人开始全职从事银饰制作。

Longhong knows a skillful artisan who has to leave his hometown to work. "I feel sorry for him and has been in contact with him."As her works grow increasingly popular among the public, Longhong started to cooperate with him who finally began his silver ornament career last year.

龙红紫娓说，银饰制作在当地每一个村落都有独特的风格，她想做的就是尽可能的让每个村落不同的记忆得到保留，让传统的手工艺人可以做自己擅长的事情。“我们希望在尊重传统的基础上，通过对设计进行当代化创新，在保护传统技艺的同时，赋予新的语言和表达，从而引起更多人的重视与欣赏，拉近传统与生活的距离。”

2021年9月，龙红紫娓在伦敦海德公园附近的雅山画廊做了一个小型展览。展览把观者带到远隔千山万水的凉山，方形立柱和台面展台衬托出精美饰品的高雅与纯净，展品中配搭的彝文书籍等，将古老与现代交相呼应的意味表现得恰到好处。

In September 2021, she made a small exhibition at the Arthill Gallery near Hyde Park in London. Featured with Yi ethnic culture, this exhibition presented the combination of old and new, bringing visitors to her hometown.

展览的半个月时间里，参观者络绎不绝。“特别是有一对老年夫妇，在展厅观看了两个多小时，了解得很仔细。”蕴含彝族文化的饰品令人眼前一亮，“那才是根，”龙红紫娓明白，“对民族文化的真正的看重，不是发现一个新地方，而是新视角”。

龙红紫娓认为，在世界范围内很多美的事物是有共通性的。“有一位意大利摄影师看到我设计的彝族四边形首饰后，他觉得和意大利的罗马柱有相似之处，让他想到了他的家乡。”

She believes that beauty is universal. "Once an Italian photographer was reminded of his hometown after seeing my work as he thought the Yi's quadrangle ornament I designed was similar to the Italian Roman column."

经龙红紫娓之手，彝族同胞平常佩戴的珠子，加工设计成一颗银质细致镂空的“小灯笼”，层层柔和的弧线中，有一种古典的韵律，总重却只有11.7克，轻灵优雅。这件饰品的成功超乎她自己的想象，也激励她对彝族传统文化元素的继续挖掘。

Inspired by the silver beads on the traditional ornaments made by China's Yi ethnic minority, Longhong made a pair of "small lantern" earrings with soft arcs that weigh only 11.7 grams.The success has surprised her, and inspires her to further explore the traditional Yi ethnic culture.